Posted by: James Wapotich | February 14, 2014

Trail Quest: Dry Lakes Ridge

If you’re looking for a new trail to explore, the hike through Dry Lakes Ridge Botanical Area in Los Padres National Forest may be the answer.

Located in the backcountry behind Ojai, the “dry lakes” is a series of four basins or depressions along Dry Lakes Ridge that include a mix of plants that are either rare or uncommon to the area. Views from the ridge extend out across the Ojai-Ventura backcountry, and out towards the Pacific Ocean.

The 400-acre site was designated as a Special Interest Area by the forest service in the late 1980s. Special Interest Areas can include those with unusual historical, geologic, botanical, or other unique characteristics.

Dry Lakes Ridge Botanical Area Ojai Hike trail Los Padres National Forest

Great Basin Sagebrush dotted with Ponderosa Pines fill the second basin

The trail along Dry Lakes Ridge is not maintained, however a fuel break has been cut along the ridge several times, most recently during the 2006 Day Fire, which provides a route to the area.

The hike to furthest basin is about 5 miles round trip. And although sections of the trail are steep and overgrown, the variety of scenery provided by the route can make the hike worthwhile.

To get to the trailhead from Ojai, take State Route 33 north. The route follows North Fork Matilija Creek passing Wheeler Gorge Campground and Ranger Station, before starting its climb out of the canyon. As the road winds its way to the top of the Matilija drainage, you’ll start to notice a prominent mountain ridge on your left overlooking the valley. This is Dry Lakes Ridge and the trailhead is located near the eastern end of the ridge line.

Dry Lakes Ridge Botanical Area map trail hike Ojai Los Padres National Forest

Map courtesy Maps.com

Eventually, State Route 33 crests the top of the Matilija Creek Drainage and passes the turnoff to Rose Valley, on your right. From here it is a mile to the trailhead. Be on the look out for a pullout on your left that also offers the last view out across Matilija Canyon that is available from State Route 33 as one heads north. Straight ahead one can notice the trail climbing the hillside. Just past the first pullout, is a second pullout on the right; and past that the views transition, overlooking Sespe Valley as State Route 33 continues north towards Pine Mountain and Cuyama.

From the trail head, the route climbs the small spur ridge that leads up to Dry Lakes Ridge. Here, the unmaintained trail has the appearance of a social trail leading through the chaparral. This is the steepest part of the hike as the route gains roughly 700 feet over the first quarter mile.

The trail then transitions onto the main ridge and starts to head west, continuing to climb. Here, the fuel break is more evident as the trail threads its way through regrowth from the chaparral that was cut when the fuel break was made.

From the ridge line the views extend north towards Pine Mountain, east out along Sespe Creek, and south towards Nordoff Ridge, Matilija Canyon and out towards the Pacific Ocean.

Dry Lakes Ridge Botanical Area Trail Ojai Hike Los Padres National Forest

Pines and wild grasses fill the third basin

At about the half mile-mark, the ridge starts to level out, and offers views west, out across the first basin. The bowl-shaped basin is predominantly filled with Great Basin sage, and the sage’s lighter green color and low profile sets it off from the surrounding chaparral, which includes manzanita on one side and ceanothus and oaks on the other side.

Over the years several fuel breaks have been cut through the area. From this vantage one can notice a route along the left side of the basin requiring a sharp turn at the end to head down into the basin, while another less noticeable route can be found to the right that connects more directly to the basin. Either route will work as long as you find your way into the basin where the two routes meet.

Because the trail is overgrown in places you may find yourself inadvertently taking a different route back than the one you came in on. One trick that can help you navigate is to stop every once a while, particularly where the trail makes some kind of transition, and look back at the way you came to get a sense of how the landscape will appear hiking back out. This can often save one from having to search for the trail later.

The trail then continues west through the first basin, here the fuel break often appears as a pair of tire tracks through the sage. And although the trail is somewhat overgrown, it is fairly easy to thread one’s way through the low brush.

Past the first basin the trail continues through a patch of wild grasses before entering the second basin. Both the first and second basins are filled with Great Basin sage, which is also found along the Cuyama River. Mixed in with the sage is a subspecies of rabbitbrush that is more commonly associated with Pinyon-Juniper woodlands of the high desert.

One of the unique plants in the botanical area that one might find is California ground cone, which is a parasitic plant that taps manzanita for its nutrients, often appearing at first glance as pine cones on the ground. And perhaps the rarest plant found there is a species of dogbane, Dry Lakes Ridge may be its only known location in all of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties.

As you continue through the second basin, the trail veers left towards a noticeable stand of Ponderosa pines on a low rise. Here, the trail continues past the pines, and through another narrow stretch of sage, before cresting back into mixed chaparral.

Once back in the chaparral, the fuel break opens again becoming more apparent as the route soon overlooks the third basin. Surprisingly, this basin is not filled with sage, but is instead filled with wild grasses and dotted with pines appearing more like a small potrero or meadow. From this vantage one can see the route that descends down to the basin, and on the far side, the trail that then continues along the ridge line towards Ortega Trail.

This third basin is perhaps the most picturesque and can make for a good rest stop or return point for the hike. In the middle of the basin is what’s left of an ice can stove, remnants of West Dry Lakes Camp. Past the third basin, the overgrown trail connects over to the fourth and last basin, which is little more than a small clearing.

From here, one can extend their hike by continuing along the ridge line towards Ortega Trail. As the trail climbs the fuel break, it leaves the botanical area and returns into the more familiar chaparral.

The hike from the fourth basin along the ridge line to Ortega Trail is about 5.5 miles roundtrip. The trail is overgrown in some places, open in others, and at times climbs up one rise and down the next making for a bit of a workout. The views from the ridge can include to the south Lake Casitas and the Channel Islands and to the north Tule Canyon and Pine Mountain.

Regardless of how far you go you’ll get to see one of the unique areas of Los Padres National Forest.

This article originally appeared in section A February 14th, 2014 edition of the Santa Barbara News-Press.

Posted by: James Wapotich | February 13, 2014

Nature as Oracle

Vision Quest Ecopsychology Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara workshop

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As we move into spring, now is the time to deepen our intentions around what we want to create in our lives, and shed off the winter coats of what we no longer need or want to carry. The springtime is also a great time of year to channel the energies of this growing season into our own growth and dreams. And as we sort out where to direct our energies and what to let go of the land can be a powerful mentor.

Nature as Oracle

Since the time of the ancient ones, men and women have journeyed into nature to seek guidance and insight. Today, more than ever, we need to step outside the narrow trance of our intellect, technology and social structures to reconnect to the more expansive intelligence of the natural world. By slowing down and becoming receptive to the non-human realms, we open ourselves to a larger collective wisdom. Nature as mirror, metaphor and teacher can reveal to us our own true nature, and give us a direct experience of the sacred web of life we are part of.

Join us on the trails for a one-day journey out on the land and see what wisdom finds you through:

    • Body/mind & mindfulness practices that expand perception and awareness
    • A “vision quest” structure for seeking guidance
    • 3.5 mile roundtrip trail hike
    • Council circle sharing & shamanic teachings
    • An embodied experience of eco-community & interconnectedness

Guides:

Maya Shaw Gale is a Mind/Body Wellness Coach and poet, and leads workshops on Embodied Mindfulness, Creative Writing and Ecopsychology. mayashawgale@verizon.net (805) 882-1893

James Wapotich is the co-founder of Revelation Dreamwork, a Volunteer Wilderness Ranger with the Los Padres National Forest, and leads trips and retreats into our local backcountry. jwapotich@yahoo.com (805) 729-4250

1-day retreat is $75 per person. Sunday, March 9th, from 9AM-4:30PM.

To sign up or for more information please contact us.

Posted by: James Wapotich | February 12, 2014

Hiking along the Condor Trail

Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara hike Condor T rail

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The Condor Trail is a 421-mile thru-hike route that traverses the southern and northern portions of the Los Padres National Forest. The route utilizes existing trails and roads, and showcases some of the best trails within our local backcountry.

The trail can be hiked in sections or as one continuous route. Many of the sections in our local area can be explored as part of a 2-3 day backpacking trip or even a day hike, and most are within two hours of Santa Barbara.

The route includes such places as Sespe Creek and Sisquoc River. Along the trail one can find waterfalls, mountain peaks, quiet potreros, hot springs, Chumash village sites, and old homesteads left by pioneers.

On Saturday, February 22nd, 3PM, the Wildling Museum in Solvang, CA is sponsoring a slideshow presentation with Q&A at their new space, 1511-B Mission Dr, Solvang, CA.

Join local author James Wapotich, as he shares images and stories from his hikes and backpacking trips along the 185-mile section of the trail that passes through Ventura and Santa Barbara Counties. Starting from Lake Piru in the south, Condor Trail passes through the Sespe, Dick Smith, and San Rafael Wildernesses on its way to San Luis Obispo County.

The event is a great opportunity to learn more about our local backcountry and its trails, as well as learn more about the Condor Trail itself.

James is an experienced backpacker and has hiked many of the trails in our local backcountry, he is a Volunteer Wilderness Ranger with the Forest Service and is the author of the Santa Barbara News-Press hiking column, Trail Quest.

For more info call (805) 688-1802.

Condor Trail Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara Backpacking hiking hike

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Posted by: James Wapotich | February 8, 2014

Trail Quest: Chinese Harbor

Backpacked on Eastern Santa Cruz Island last weekend. Started from Prisoners Harbor and hiked to Del Norte Camp, where I base camped and then day-hiked to Chinese Harbor and made a loop back along the Navy Road to the campground. Article appears in section A of today’s edition of the Santa Barbara News-Press.

Chinese Harbor Santa Cruz Island Del Norte Trail Channel Island National Park Santa Barbara hike

Chinese Harbor

Santa Cruz Island map trail Del Norte Campground backpacking hike Chinese Harbor Channel Islands National Park

Map courtesy Maps.com

Because of the recent storm, the boat ride out to the island was bumpy. I think if it’d been any worse they would’ve canceled. At Prisoner’s Harbor I took some time to explore the immediate area, as the last time I was there I was anxious to press on. The wetland restoration is moving along and there are now several new interpretive signs. It was interesting to learn in my research that 50 percent of the original creek had been filled in with gravel and that the creek itself has been redirected and channelized because of the ranching operations and the construction of the navy road.

The hike to Del Norte was easier than I’d remembered it from last time, probably because I knew I wasn’t backpacking to the other side of the island this time.

Prisoners Harbor Xaxas Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park Santa Barbara hike

Prisoners Harbor

The trail crosses several small drainages on its way from Navy Road to Del Norte Camp, and true its name Cañada del Agua did have a trickle of water in it although not very appealing looking.

At Del Norte Camp I met the only other person camping there, William, also known as the Adventure Hiker. His exploits are chronicled on his youtube channel.

Having set up camp with still some hours of daylight I decided to look for Del Norte Springs. During a previous trip to the islands I had purchased Don Morris’ book A Guide to East Santa Cruz Island at the Channel Islands National Park Visitors Center. When I first found Mr. Morris’ book I was excited to see that he had described many of the off-trail routes I’d noticed on eastern Santa Cruz, however now using his book to try locate a specific site, I was somewhat disappointed with descriptions. For example, in his book, Mr. describes Del Norte Springs as being “upstream from the campground, about a half mile“ and surrounded by poison oak. However, Del Norte isn’t really on a creek. It’s at the top of a wash that drains down to a creek, okay. But even using that creek as a point of reference combined with his other clues didn’t lead me to the spring. What I did notice on my hike was an old road cut, now overgrown with fennel and coyote brush. More about that later.

On Saturday, I heard William set out on his hike around 5AM for his 20+ mile hiking tour of the island. The last time I was there I’d gotten up at a similar hour to take in Chinese Harbor and backpack over to Scorpion Anchorage. This time I chose to sleep in.

The hike down to Chinese Harbor was uneventful. Again trying to work with the information in Don Morris’ book I hunted around for a spring that was supposed to be located near the harbor, and while I had an enjoyable hike up a narrow creek I couldn’t find anything that matched his descriptions.

Santa Cruz Island Fox Channel Island hike Del Norte Trail

A pair of Santa Cruz Island Foxes

On the way back from the harbor I did get my first real photo op with the Santa Cruz Island fox. It was actually a pair of them and true to their fox nature they exuded cuteness. Past the fox scene I stumbled across a cattle trough I hadn’t noticed on the hike in. Poking around I found a wild boar skull, which I felt compelled place on top on an old fence post for decoration.

Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park Santa Barbara hike Del Norte Trail

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At the turnoff to Chinese Harbor it occurred to me that I had plenty of time to take an alternate route back to camp and see more of the island, and so I climbed the road that leads up to the Navy Road. Great views of Montañon Ridge in the distance.

The “high road” route back to camp also included some great views south and east towards Anacapa and Santa Barbara Islands. The route also leads past the Navy facility and their impressive solar array.

From Navy Road there’s a connector road that leads back down to Del Norte Camp. And as I headed down towards camp it occurred to me that I still had enough daylight to cross-country hike down to the road cut I’d seen the day before. Once on the old road cut I followed it west as it rounded the hillside and to my surprise came upon an old water tank. Hiking past the tank led me to essentially a pump house. Perhaps this was the spring Mr. Morris’ wrote about. (Also found two fox skulls at the site).

Del Norte Trail Camp Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park Santa Barbara hike

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Del Norte Springs Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park Santa Barbara Hike

Pump house near Del Norte Springs

Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park Santa Barbara hike fox

A pair of Santa Cruz Island Fox Skulls

Once back at camp I was surprised by how many people were now there, and the different approaches they’d taken to exploring the island. Next to my camp was a group of four campers who had arrived Saturday morning with their kayaks and gear. They’d kayaked along the coast from Prisoners to Tinker’s Cove and back, and then backpacked up to Del Norte Camp for the night. An account of their adventures can be found on their blog, Misadventures of a Red Head.

Past their camp was another couple who’d arrived at Scorpion Anchorage on Saturday and backpacked the 11.5 miles across the island to Del Norte Camp. And their plan was to get up early and hike to down Prisoners and tie in with the docent led hike to Pelican Bay, which of course got me to thinking. I had been toying with taking the high road back to Prisoners as way to see a little more of the island that I hadn’t seen before, but maybe I could do both.

William had a similar thought and I caught up with him along the Navy Road, and while hiking mentioned to him that the National Geographic map of the Channel Island showed a trail on the ridge that ran along the eastern side of Eagle Canyon, which I was thinking of taking. The trail piqued his interested and he joined the trek. Turns out like several other trails on the NG map the trail doesn’t really exist, having become overgrown with fennel. Nevertheless it was a fun hike, particularly in the context of the overgrown trails one can find in our Los Padres. An adventurer at heart William filmed the expedition for a future post, commenting that we must’ve hike at least mile through nothing but fennel. We made it down to Prisoners just in time to catch up with the hike to Pelican Bay.

The hike to Pelican Bay was a nice bonus to the trip with several fox sightings. On the hike back it started to rain. which actually made me wish I could stay an extra day as I’d been wanting to see what the islands were like during the rain.

Pelican Bay Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park Santa Barbara hike

Pelican Bay

Older articles can be seen by scrolling down or using the search feature in the upper right corner. Articles from the News-Press appear here a couple months after they appear in the News-Press.

Posted by: James Wapotich | February 3, 2014

Trail Quest: Grass Mountain

With its pyramid shape and grassy face, Grass Mountain is one of the more recognizable summits in the San Rafael Mountains. Grass Mountain can be seen from a number of locations throughout the Santa Ynez Valley, including along State Route 154. And although the hike to Grass Mountain is steep, the rewards include exceptional views out across the valley.

The trail to Grass Mountain is part of the network trails associated with Midland School that lead through Birabent Canyon and the foothills of the San Rafael Mountains. These trails offer a variety of riding and hiking opportunities. The hike to the top of Grass Mountain is about five miles roundtrip.

In 2008, with the help of Trust for Public Land and Land Trust for Santa Barbara County, Midland School established a conservation easement covering 2,727 acres of land owned by the school. And it is the land located north of Figueroa Mountain Road within that easement that has been generously opened by Midland School for hiking and equestrian use.

Grass Mountain Midland School Property San Rafael Mountains

Sunset colors paint the face of Grass Mountain

Founded in 1932, Midland School is a co-educational college preparatory boarding school. The school aspires to teach students self-reliance, leadership, and environmental stewardship; and a number of the classes and programs make use of the surrounding land. Each year the entire school also makes a trek to the top of Grass Mountain. For more information about Midland School go to http://www.midland-school.org.

To get to the trailhead, from Los Olivos, follow Figueroa Mountain Road north. The road leads through Alamo Pintado Valley and at about the 6-mile mark the road passes Midland School. Two miles past the school, the road crosses Alamo Pintado Creek, where the trailhead is located. Parking is found in pullouts on both sides of the crossing. From the crossing, Figueroa Mountain Road climbs out of the valley and continues towards Figueroa Mountain Campground.

A one-day hiking permit is required to visit the trails on the Midland Property. Permits can be found in a box outside, at Midland School, as well as at the trailhead. For equestrian access you will need to contact Midland School directly at horseback@midland-school.org. The trails are closed during rainy weather and school events. No camping is allowed on the property.

Grass Mountain Zaca Lake Ridge Midland Trail map hike Los Padres National Forest

Map courtesy Maps.com

A map of the trails is posted along the main trail near the trailhead. The map shows the main routes through the property, however there are also a number of side trails created by grazing cattle over the years that can sometimes be confusing. A portion of the main trails are marked with signs.

For the hike to Grass Mountain continue from the trailhead along the trail that follows Alamo Pintado Creek up Birabent Canyon. Almost immediately the trail branches with Lover’s Loop Trail on the right, and then past that, on the left, a connector trail that crosses the creek and leads over towards the equestrian trailhead.

The trail to Grass Mountain continues up the canyon, along the creek, which is currently flowing. Grass Mountain is visible in the distance much of the way. The trail passes through a mix of riparian plants, chaparral and pine.

At about the half mile mark, the trail crosses the creek arriving at a large sycamore tree. Here, the trail branches again, with the trail to the left connecting over to the trails west of Grass Mountain.

Zaca lake Ridge Peak Trail Santa Barbara hike Midland School Los Padres National Forest

Zaca Peak is seen from the connector trail from Grass Mountain to Zaca Ridge

Stay to the right as the trail continues upstream along the creek. There are several routes mixed together here, one of which leads up to Maple Canyon, however as long as you’re still continuing up Birabent Canyon you’re moving in the right direction.

As you continue up the canyon, be on the lookout for a small side creek on the left, also known as Maple Creek, which usually has at least a trickle of water in it. Just past Maple Creek is the beginning of the trail to Grass Mountain, also on the left. The turnoff for Grass Mountain is not marked, however the trail is distinct and climbs away from Alamo Pintado Creek, while the trail through Birabent Canyon continues upstream and connects with Lover’s Loop Trail.

As the trail to Grass Mountain leaves the creek, it begins its long climb to the top. From here, the trail gains about about 2,250 feet over roughly two miles. The trail is well worn and essentially follows the ridge line between Maple Canyon and the next canyon over to the east.

At about the 1.75-mile mark the trail transitions from chaparral to the the more open grassy hillside that gives Grass Mountain its name. Here, the trail leaves the Midland Property and enters Los Padres National Forest. The trail become noticeably steeper, as it climbs its way up the face of Grass Mountain.

It is from this elevation that one can easily see the sweep of Alamo Pintado Valley and imagine the routes the Chumash might’ve taken through the area.

The Chumash village of Soxtonokmu’ was located near the upper end of Alamo Pintado Valley and was the largest village in the Santa Ynez Valley. A route from Soxtonokmu’ is said to have connected to Kalawashaq’, the second largest village in the valley, which was located along the Santa Ynez River. The route likely led over a small rise to the east of Soxtonokmu’, and down into Lisque Canyon, where Sedgwick Reserve is now located. From there the route likely followed Figueroa Creek downstream to Santa Agueda Creek, which joins the Santa Ynez River near where the intersection of Armour Ranch Road and State Route 154 is now located. The village of Kalawashaq’ was downstream from Santa Agueda Creek along the Santa Ynez River.

From the top of Grass Mountain the views extend out across the valley towards the Santa Ynez Mountains, and along the San Rafael Mountains towards Zaca Peak, Figueroa Mountain, and the other summits along the range.

From Grass Mountain one can extend their hike to take in additional scenery. The trail continues north towards Zaca Ridge. And from Zaca Ridge one can hike to either Zaca Peak or take in views of Zaca Lake.

Continuing north from Grass Mountain the trail transitions into manzanita and follows the ridge line a half mile over to the next summit. The trail is somewhat overgrown, but is still easy enough to follow. Past this unnamed summit, the trail opens up a little bit as it moves through a mix of manzanita and pine, and continues another quarter mile towards Zaca Ridge offering some great views of Zaca Peak.

At about the 4-mile mark from the trailhead, the trail arrives at a sign marking the Zaca Ridge Trail, also known as Zaca Peak Trail. To the left, it’s about a quarter mile west along the trail to a point where one can see the lake. The trail is overgrown in places, but is still easy to follow and the views of the lake are worth the extra effort.

To the right, one can reach Zaca Peak. The hike to Zaca Peak requires more effort and pushing through brush. From the trail juncture it’s about a half mile west along Zaca Ridge Trail to where one would start the quarter mile climb to Zaca Peak. There is no trail to the top of Zaca Peak, but a route can be crafted following the ridge line that intersects Zaca Ridge Trail and climbs the western side of the peak. Because of the topography, one cannot see Zaca Lake from the top.

Regardless of how far you go you’ll get to see some of the rich scenery of Birabent Canyon and the San Rafael Mountains.

This article originally appeared in section A of the February 1st, 2014 edition of the Santa Barbara News-Press.

Zaca Lake Peak Ridge Trail San Rafael Mountains Los Padres National Forest Midland School hike Santa Barbara

Zaca Lake is seen from Zaca Ridge

Posted by: James Wapotich | January 25, 2014

Trail Quest: Ellwood Mesa Open Space

Along the coast of Goleta is a patchwork of contiguous open spaces and preserves that form more than 650 acres of protected habitat. During the winter months, one of the more popular of these places is Ellwood Mesa Open Space, also known as Sperling Preserve.

From November to February, the 137-acre open space attracts tens of thousands of monarch butterflies who spend their winters there. The open space also provides a network of trails for recreation and coastal access.

The main trail access to Ellwood Mesa Open Space is located along Hollister Avenue across from Ellwood Elementary School. To get to the trailhead from Santa Barbara, take Highway 101 north to the Glen Annie-Storke Road exit. Turn south onto Storke Road, and then right onto Hollister Avenue. Continue on Hollister Avenue for 1.5 miles to the entrance of the parking area, across from Ellwood School. From the parking area it’s about .75 miles to the main monarch butterfly grove. The route travels south and then east along the network of trails through the open space.

Ellwood Mesa Open Space Santa Barbara Goleta hike trail Sperling Preserve shores monarch butterflies butterfly

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There are also a number of trailheads and access points that can be found in the nearby residential neighborhoods that border the open space. Perhaps the most interesting of these, is the one at the end of Coronado Drive, which is also reached from Hollister Avenue.

Along Coronado Drive one can find Coronado Butterfly Preserve. The roughly 9-acre preserve was purchased in 1998 by The Land Trust for Santa Barbara County with grants and community donations. The site includes several interpretive signs, and an outdoor gathering area that is surrounded by native chaparral plants that have been planted there. From Coronado Butterfly Preserve, a trail meanders southward less than a quarter mile towards the main monarch grove.

A prime birding spot can also be found nearby, at the end of Coronado Drive. Here, a culvert carries water that flows into Devereux Creek, and it is this small year-round flow that attracts birds. By standing there quietly, particularly during the winter, one can easily experience the power of this bird magnet. From the end of Coronado Drive, one can follow a trail west that intersects the trail leading from Coronado Butterfly Preserve to the main monarch grove.

Ellwood Mesa Open Space map trail hike Santa Barbara Goleta Sperling Preserve

Map courtesy Maps.com

Ellwood Main Monarch Butterfly Grove is nestled amongst the eucalyptus growing along the small hollow formed by the Devereux Creek drainage. And it is this location that helps create the right micro-climate for the butterflies to gather in.

Other features of the site that appeal to the butterflies, are its location near the coast that keeps the overall temperatures moderate and the availability of water from the nearby creeks and yards. Although the butterflies have already stored up fat reserves from when they were caterpillars, the nectar from the eucalyptus flowers, which bloom in the winter, offer an added enticement to the shelter provided by the trees.

In the morning one is likely to see the most butterflies gathered on the trees, appearing at first to the eye as clumps of leaves. While in the afternoon, when it’s warm the butterflies are typically more active. At times, there can be as many as 50,000 butterflies over-wintering at Ellwood Mesa Open Space.

In 2007, the City of Goleta helped develop a volunteer docent program to monitor the site and serve as an educational resource for visitors. Docents are there on the weekends from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. during the over-wintering months. For more information about visiting the monarch grove go to http://www.goletabutterflygrove.com.

Ellwood Mesa Open Space Sperling Preserve monarch butterflies butterfly goleta santa barbara trail hike

Monarch Butterflies gather on eucalyptus trees near Devereux Creek at Ellwood Mesa Open Space

The eucalyptus trees used by the monarchs date back to when Ellwood Cooper settled the area. Cooper first visited here in 1868 and was inspired to return two years later and start ranching. On his 2,000-acre ranch he planted walnut, almond, olive and eucalyptus trees. And at the time ran both the largest walnut and olive ranch in California.

In 1872, Cooper introduced eucalyptus trees from Australia to the area as an alternate source of lumber. And for a time wood from Ellwood Cooper’s eucalyptus trees were used for Stearn’s Wharf.

Ellwood Mesa Open Space is the result of a cooperative effort by the City of Goleta, Santa Barbara County and UC Santa Barbara.

In 2001, the county and UC Santa Barbara developed a proposal to redirect residential development away from sensitive habitat along the coast through an innovative land swap. In 2003, the newly formed City of Goleta joined the effort, and that same year The Trust for Public Land and Friends of Ellwood Mesa began the necessary fundraising.

In 2004, the open space was officially named Sperling Preserve, in honor of the Sperling Family’s generous donation. The preserve represents an integral piece of the 650 acres of protected habitat known as Ellwood-Devereaux Coast Open Space.

Continuing south, past the monarch butterfly grove one can find a trail that leads towards the coast. The trail leaves the eucalyptus trees and transitions into open grassland dotted with coyote brush and wild fennel. Here, one can also find a network of trails that criss-cross the open space. About quarter mile from the monarch site, the trail reaches the edge of the mesa, overlooking the ocean.

From here, it’s about a quarter mile or less in either direction along the bluffs to a trail that leads down to beach. From the beach one can continue east towards Sands Beach and Coal Oil Point, about a mile. And to the west, tides permitting, to Haskell’s Beach, near Bacara, about 1.75 miles.

Another option for exploring the area is to make a circuit around the open space, roughly three miles. From the main monarch grove, follow the trail, west that parallels Devereux Creek. The trail continues through the eucalyptus trees, and about a quarter mile later, passes on the right, the trail that leads to the parking area across from Ellwood School.

From here, the trail continues west to the edge of the open space, which borders Sandpiper Golf Course. Here, the route around the open space turns south towards the ocean. And where the trail arrives at the cliff overlooking the coast one can find a trail that leads down to the beach.

Continuing east around the open space, along the top of the bluffs, one arrives another trail that leads down to the beach. A shorter route to this particular beach access begins at the end of Santa Barbara Shores Drive.

As one continues east along the bluffs, one can find two more coastal access points. The first is near the trail leading from the monarch butterfly grove, and the other is near the end of the north-south line of eucalyptus trees that mark the eastern edge of the open space. This last coastal access point can also be reached from the end of Ellwood Beach Drive.

At this north-south line of eucalyptus trees, turn north to continue the circuit around the open space. The route arrives back at Devereaux Creek, where one turns west to return back to their starting point for a total of about three miles.

From the north-south line of eucalyptus trees, one can extend their hike still further by heading east towards Isla Vista, giving one the option to explore Coal Oil Point Reserve and North Campus Open Space, formerly Ocean Meadow Golf Course. About midway between the coast and the northern edge of the open space one can find a trail that leads east from the line of eucalyptus trees and connects up with a paved Venoco access road that leads over towards Storke Road and additional hiking opportunities.

Regardless of how far you go, you’ll get to some of what makes Ellwood Mesa such a unique resource for our local community.

This article originally appeared in section A of January 25th, 2014 edition of the Santa Barbara News-Press.

yellow-rumped warblers bird watching bird Ellwood Mesa Open Space Coronado Drive Santa Barbara Goleta trail hike

A pair of yellow-rumped warblers gather at the water seep at the end of Coronado Drive

Posted by: James Wapotich | January 18, 2014

Exploring the Realms of Dreaming

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I’m excited to be re-launching the Lucid Dreaming/Lucid Living workshops that I offered in 2010. This new 5-week workshop will explore dreaming, lucid dreaming, and lucid living. We will be using a sacred circle format, essentially forming a Dreaming Council to work with our dreams.

Participants will learn a variety of conceptual approaches and practical techniques for increasing dream recall, interpreting dream messages, cultivating heightened awareness within dreams, and incorporating dream insights back into waking life.

The workshop will be held in Santa Barbara, Tuesdays, from 6:30-9:30pm, February 18th – March 18th, 2014.

To help kick things off, Richard Hilton will be joining Maya and me at a screening of his documentary Explorers of the Lucid Dreamworld. In many ways it was Richard’s movie that was the impetus for me to start offering dreaming workshops.

The movie covers the scientific, psychological, and spiritual aspects of lucid dreaming, and features interviews with experts such as Dr. Stephen LaBerge from the Lucidity Institute, Dr. Fariba Bogzaran from the Lucid Art Foundation, Patricia Keelin from the Lucidity Institute, and Dr. Alan Wallace from the Santa Barbara Institute of Consciousness Studies.

The movie will be shown, at 7pm, Wednesday, February 5th at the Karpeles Manuscript Library, 21. W. Anapamu St. in Santa Barbara, California.

The screening is FREE and open to the public. Following the movie will be a forum discussion on lucid dreaming.

Lucid Dreaming workshop Santa Barbara documentary lucidity

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Posted by: James Wapotich | January 18, 2014

Owl Dreaming

In 2012, while out hiking the trails during the summer I had a number of owl encounters that were the inspiration for the collages you see here. I had been wanting to do some more artwork and during a hike on the trails at Midland School it occurred to me to craft four different scenes using images of owls and old ruins, and map them thematically onto the four seasons. The fifth image was one I’d composed several years ago and had never completed, but with a little reworking fit well into the owl dreaming motif.

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Over the past 25 years I’ve been making collages with images from magazines and books. Most of the collages I’ve made are in color with images sourced from the likes of National Geographic, and other travel and nature related magazines and books. But the very first images I made were from the engravings used to illustrate books, journals and magazines during the 19th Century. And so in some ways these five images hark back to those original works.

Those early collages were initially inspired by the work of Wilfried “Satty” Podriech, particularly his book Time Zone. Satty, in turn, was likely inspired by Max Ernst who produced Une Semaine de Bonte/A Week of Kindness, that also used a similar technique.

Posted by: James Wapotich | January 18, 2014

Trail Quest: Divide Peak

Our local Santa Ynez Mountains run east-west, behind Santa Barbara, and parallel to the coast. On a clear day, from the top of the mountains one can enjoy views out towards the Channel Islands. And behind Santa Barbara, views inland across the backcountry.

The are a variety of ways to reach the top of Santa Ynez Mountains, the easiest being of course, State Route 154, which crosses the mountains at San Marcos Pass.

But what if one was wanting to visit the highest point within the range? That would be a different challenge. The highest point in the Santa Ynez Mountains is an unnamed summit east of Divide Peak with an elevation of 4,864 feet. And it’s somewhat surprising that there isn’t a trail to the top, and that the peak is unnamed.

Murietta Canyon Creek Spring Road Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara Ojai hike trail Divide Peak

Murietta Canyon is seen from Murietta Road

A worthy alternative is nearby Divide Peak, which is 4,707 feet in elevation, and is the highest named peak in the range. And although steep at times, there is a route that is easy to follow that leads to the peak.

The route to Divide Peak leads through Murietta Canyon, near Ojai, to Murietta Divide, and from there along Monte Arido Trail to the top of the Santa Ynez Mountains. The hike from the trailhead to the peak is about 13-miles roundtrip and leads through a rich variety of scenery. For this hike you’ll want to get an early start and bring plenty of water as there is very little along the route.

To get to the trailhead, from Ojai, take State Route 33 north about five miles to Matilija Canyon Road, which is on the left. Matilija Canyon Road continues west, past Matilija Lake and ends at a locked gate. Parking is found along the road.

Divide Peak trail map Santa Barbara Ojai hike Los Padres National Forest

Map courtesy Maps.com

From the gate, continue west along the road, through Matilija Canyon Ranch, please respect private property. The unpaved road, which now becomes Murietta Road, continues up through Matilija Canyon.

At about the .75-mile mark from the parking area, you’ll arrive at the turnoff for Upper North Fork Matilija Canyon, on the right. Upper North Fork Matilija Trail leads north into Matilija Wilderness and the trail camps found along Upper North Fork Matilija Creek.

From the turnoff for Upper North Fork Matilija Trail, continue straight along Murietta Road, another a tenth of a mile, and look for the turnoff for Murietta Trail on your left. Both trailheads are well marked.

Monte Arido Trail Divide Peak Jameson Lake Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara Ojai Hike

A view towards Jameson Lake from Monte Arido Trail

Murietta Trail continues south and leads through chaparral and then, as it approaches, Murietta Creek transitions into riparian plants. The trail crosses the creek, which is currently flowing intermittently. This time of the year, the crossing is quite picturesque as the creek bed is carpeted with alder leaves and catkins.

At about the 1.75-mile mark from the parking area, the trail arrives at Murietta Camp. The camp is tucked under a group of oak trees near the creek, and has three metal fire rings with grills.

The camp is named after the bandit Joaquin Murietta, who was rumored to have used the canyon as a hideout. And standing there, one can easily imagine a band of outlaws galloping into camp and taking refuge in this out of the way canyon.

From Murietta Camp, Murietta Trail continues up the canyon another three quarters of a mile before rejoining Murietta Road. From Murietta Road one can make a loop back to the beginning of Murietta Trail for a shorter hike of about 5 miles roundtrip from the parking area. The route includes a variety of scenery and modest elevation gains that can make for a fun hike.

Ocean View Trail Casitas Lake Divide Peak Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara Ojai Hike

Casitas Lake is seen from Divide Peak OHV Route near Ocean View Trail

For the hike to Divide Peak, continue west along Murietta Road as it climbs towards Murietta Divide. The road is partially shaded and offers great views out across Murietta Canyon.

At about the 4.25-mile mark from the parking area, the road passes Murietta Spring, appearing as a small side creek, on the right, filled with ferns.

Past the spring, Murietta Road becomes noticeably steeper as it makes the final half-mile push to reach Murietta Divide.

Murietta Divide sits along the low point of the ridge that separates two of the main river drainages in our area. To the east is Murietta Creek, which joins Matilija Creek, and flows into the Ventura River, and to the west is the beginning of the Santa Ynez River.

Murietta Creek Canyon Trail Camp Los Padres National Forest Santa Barbara Hike

Alder trees line Murietta Creek

At Murietta Divide the road branches. To the right, Monte Arido Road continues north towards Potrero Seco and ultimately arrives at State Route 33 near Pine Mountain. Straight ahead, Murietta Road continues towards Jameson Lake and eventually connects to Romero-Camuesa Road. Many of these unpaved Forest Service roads can make for great mountain bike rides.

To reach Divide Peak, continue along Murietta Road towards Jameson Lake. Just past the turn off for Monte Arido Road, look for the beginning of Monte Arido Trail on your left. The trail climbs steeply to the top of the Santa Ynez Mountains tracing the ridge between the Ventura and Santa Ynez River drainage basins, and offers great views in both directions. The trail is in good shape and follows what appears to be an old fuel break.

At about the 5.5-mile mark from the parking area, the trail arrives at unpaved Divide Peak OHV Route. To the left, Divide Peak OHV Route continues east another half mile before ending. And to the right, Divide Peak OHV Route continues west along the top of the Santa Ynez Mountains and eventually connects with Romero-Camuesa Road, which can be reached from East Camino Cielo Road.

Divide Peak OHV Route is open to registered off highway vehicles and is an alternate way to reach Divide Peak. From Romero-Camuesa Road it’s about 12 miles along Divide Peak OHV Route to Divide Peak.

From Monte Arido Trail, continue west another .75 miles along Divide Peak OHV Route. The route curves around the north side of Divide Peak and arrives at two large metal water tanks.

The water tanks actually sit at the intersection of two historic trails, Ocean View Trail and Rincon Trail. Ocean View Trail ran along the top of the Santa Ynez Mountains and connected with another historic trail, El Camino Cielo Trail, which led down from the eastern end of the mountains to the Ventura River. Divide Peak OHV Route follows this same route along the top of the mountains, but ends about a mile east of Divide Peak, where one can still find Ocean View Trail. The trail is overgrown, but remnants of the old tread can still be found along the top of the mountains.

Similar to Franklin Trail, Rincon Trail connected the Carpinteria area with the backcountry, and traveled from the foothills to the top of the mountains. Access to both Franklin and Rincon Trails was closed to the public in the 1970s. Perhaps one day both Rincon and Ocean View Trails will be cleared of brush and re-opened for hiking.

From the water tanks it’s a short hike, east, to the top of Divide Peak. From the peak one can enjoy nearly 360 degree views of the surrounding area, including views out across Carpinteria towards the Channel Islands and along the coast. It is one of the few spots where one can stand and on one side see Lake Casitas and on the other see Jameson Lake.

Although Divide Peak is the tallest named peak in the Santa Ynez Mountains, it is not the highest point in the range. That distinction falls to an unnamed summit about a mile east of Divide Peak. There is no trail to top of this summit, but one can improvise a route from Divide Peak OHV Route to the top, if they’re willing to push through brush and scramble over rocks. The unnamed summit is noticeable from Murietta Canyon and Monte Arido Trail.

This article originally appeared in section A of the January 18th, 2014 edition of Santa Barbara News-Press.

Posted by: James Wapotich | January 10, 2014

Trail Quest: Douglas Family Preserve

Imagine a place where one can take a leisurely walk along the coast overlooking the ocean, or just enjoy being outdoors in a natural setting, all within a few minutes of Santa Barbara. In many ways, Douglas Family Preserve exists because of that vision.

The 70-acre preserve is located near Arroyo Burro Beach County Park on a large mesa overlooking the ocean, between Cliff Drive and the coast; and was once the site of a plant nursery. When the nursery closed in 1972, community members rallied to keep the land undeveloped, and in 1997 that vision was realized with the creation of Douglas Family Preserve.

Now almost twenty years later, we are still able to enjoy the benefits of that vision and the work it took to fulfill it. The preserve is managed by the City of Santa Barbara Parks and Recreation Department and is open to the public from 6:00 a.m. to a half-hour after sunset.

Douglas Family Preserve Santa Barbara hike trail Wilcox Property Nursery

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Within the preserve is a network of trails, open to hiking and bikes. A loop hike around the preserve is roughly one mile.

To get to the trailhead find your way to Cliff Drive, on the Mesa, and turn onto Mesa Lane, heading towards the ocean. From Mesa Lane, turn right onto Medcliff Road, which ends at the entrance to the preserve.

There are two other entrances to the preserve that can also be accessed from Mesa Lane, one at the end of Borton Drive, and another at the intersection of Mesa School Lane and Linda Road. Parking is found along the street at all three entrances.

Douglas Family Preserve hike trail map Santa Barbara Wilcox Property Hendry's Beach Arroyo Burro

Map courtesy Maps.com

Douglas Family Preserve is one of the few parks in Santa Barbara that allows dogs off-leash. However, dogs must be under control at all times, and on leash until inside the preserve’s designated off-leash area. Signs posted within the park indicate where the off-leash area begins and ends. Please pick up after your dog, and dispose of your dog’s waste.

At each of the three access points is a large interpretative sign summarizing the preserve’s history and habitats, as well as the park regulations. The sign also includes a helpful map of the trails, which are a mix of social trails that have been established over the years and some of the old roads used when the site was an active nursery.

In 1949, Roy Wilcox moved his successful nursery operation from the Los Angeles area to Santa Barbara, where he continued to raise kentia palms and other ornamental plants. Throughout the preserve one can find remnants of the nursery, including cement foundations from some of the buildings, fire hydrants and a variety of non-native plants.

In 1972, when the nursery closed, community members set about preserving the land as an open space. And in 1996, the community rallied to raise funds to the purchase what had become known as the Wilcox Property.

A generous donation from Michael Douglas helped the community reach the $3.6 million necessary to purchase the land. With the funds raised, the Trust for Public Lands was able acquire the property, and a year later transferred it to the City of Santa Barbara. The park was named Douglas Family Preserve in recognition of the Douglas Family’s support.

A popular route through the preserve is to start from the Medcliff entrance and continue west, along the coast to the overlook above Arroyo Burro Beach Park, and either return from there or make a circuit around the preserve.

The trail overlooking the coast starts off through mostly chaparral and wild grasses, and then transitions into a mix of non-native Monterey cypress and eucalyptus trees. It’s through this section one can find a number of places to take in the views, particularly at sunset.

From the Arroyo Burro Beach Park overlook the trail around the preserve turns north; here, one is offered views of the Santa Ynez Mountains as well as Elings Park South. The trail then turns east and traces the northern edge of the mesa, here, the plants transition into a mix of oak woodland and non-native plants.

At about the .75-mile mark, the loop route around the preserve arrives at the turnoff for Oak Grove Trail, which leads down to the intersection of Cliff Drive and Las Positas Road. From this turnoff, the loop route continues clockwise around the preserve roughly another quarter mile and returns to the trailhead at Medcliff Road.

However, by following Oak Grove Trail down towards the intersection of Las Positas and Cliff, one can extend their hike by continuing over to Arroyo Burro Beach Park. And then from there, hike along the beach to the coastal access at Mesa Lane Steps, and return along the residential streets to the Medcliff Road trailhead. This larger loop is about 2.5 miles long and offers a number of unique perspectives on the area.

For this hike continue along Oak Grove Trail as it descends towards Mesa Creek. The trail follows an old access road that used to lead to the nursery and is shaded by coastal live oaks.

In 2007, Mesa Creek was restored to improve water quality in the creek and at the beach. The restoration work included the removal of the cement and metal culvert through which a section of the creek had flowed, and the removal of non-native plants.

A footbridge was placed across the creek, and three interpretive signs, describing the habitat restoration, were also installed along the route.

The trail then arrives at the intersection of Las Positas and Cliff. Across the intersection one can access the trails in Elings Park for additional hiking opportunities.

For the 2.5-mile loop hike continue west along Cliff Drive, crossing Arroyo Burro Creek, here one can see the confluence of Mesa and Arroyo Burro Creeks and the beginning of Arroyo Burro Estuary. The route leads through a small section of planted native plants including purple and black sage, and arrives at the overflow parking area for Arroyo Burro Beach.

Continue west through the overflow parking lot, and into the main parking area. The route traces Arroyo Burro Estuary and features four interpretive signs about the history, restoration, and flora and fauna of the estuary.

The original tidal estuary was roughly 500 feet wide, and was filled in to create space for agriculture and later Arroyo Burro Beach County Park. One of the interpretative signs includes an image from the late 1800s of the original estuary; and it’s interesting to imagine what it might’ve been like to follow Arroyo Burro Creek to the ocean before the area was developed.

Arroyo Burro Beach Park is probably better known as Hendry’s Beach, a reference to William and Ana Hendry who owned a ranch near the beach.

From the beach continue east, tides permitting, to the coastal access at the end of Mesa Lane. The three-quarters of a mile walk along the beach offers views up towards Douglas Family Preserve.

At Mesa Lane Steps, follow the stairs up to Mesa Lane and continue north about a block to Medcliff Road. Turn left onto Medcliff and continue another four blocks back to the trailhead at the end of MedCliff Road to complete the loop back to the preserve.

Regardless of how far you go you’ll have a chance to see some of what makes Santa Barbara a unique place to live.

This article originally appeared in section A of the January 10th, 2014 edition of the Santa Barbara News-Press.

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